Pacific Crest Tour 1995

Pacific Crest Tour 1995
by John Hughes

Our objective was to set two new trans-California records: the _slowest_ west to east crossing and the _slowest_ south to north ride. Because seven of the riders were using the trip as training for RAAM, PBP, or Furnace Creek, I also threw in a few hills.

Sat., June 24: San Diego to Santa Ysabel

To begin our record runs, we rode south to the Mexican border before heading east into the foothills. By 9 am we were out of the fog and the southern California sun was taking it's toll on the riders. The four veterans of last year's trip also took it easy, knowing that harder days lay ahead. By noon, we were atop Mt. Laguna (5975 ft) and lunched on turkey sandwiches and plenty of soda. The ride down to Julian was a pretty, rolling descent, with great views down to the eastern California desert. Most riders stopped at the Julian deli for shaved ice before riding the last nine miles to the Apple Tree Inn. Steve Born, searching for more heat, rode down to the Anza-Borrego desert and back up Banning Grade for 60 bonus miles. 101 miles and 8000 feet.

Sun., June 25: Santa Ysabel to Banning

We breakfasted on home made cinnamon rolls, coffee cake and pancakes. Lee Mitchell was using the trip to train for team RAAM; today, he and I alternated approximately one hour pulls at race pace. We easily stayed ahead of the solo riders on the long, gentle descent to Aguanga (1940 ft). We had to really hammer on the four long, hot climbs to Idyllwild (5300 ft) and barely got lunch set up before the solo riders arrived. I was thoroughly tweaked coming into lunch and was quite glad that Lee got to ride the final grunt to Pine Cove (6200 ft) and the descent into the 104 degree blast furnace of Banning. 98 miles and 7000 feet.

Mon., June 26: The Banning to Wrightwood

The Wrightwood Death March began with a foggy 18 mile ride through the suburbs. This was Lee's recovery day, so after this warm-up, he let me ride the rest of the day. When we turned right onto Highway 38 (2700 ft) our challenge was simple: climb a vertical mile in less than three hours to Onyx Summit (8443 ft). In the first 11 miles we climbed 3000 feet, out of the high desert and into the much appreciated forest. We then rolled along the ridge for 9 miles to Barton Flat (6700 ft). I was feeling the altitude: I couldn't suck on my Camelback and pedal at the same time. Other than the distinct lack of air, the final ten miles weren't particularly hard; however, we were all glad for the rest stop at the summit.

After the summit, Rick Anderson and I put our heads down and cranked through the Big Bear City resort area. We rode so fast that we beat Lee and the lunch van to Lakeview Point (7117 ft)! After lunch, I used my weight and descending skills to break away from Rick and Mark Bettinger. In my rear view mirror I could see them chasing furiously. After three miles, I sat up; when Rick caught me he told me I'd made a wrong turn and was descending toward San Bernardino. Oh, damn! We climbed the 1000 feet back up to the Rim of the World and headed on north.

After a series of steep rollers on the ridge, we dropped back down into the desert and our last rest stop. My legs had stopped complaining; they were simply numb with fatigue. Before the final climb, I put on a cassette with a 28 tooth cog. Finally, after 120 miles and 11,000 feet of climbing, we began the slow grind up Lone Pine Canyon. The name is significant -- there was no shade for the seven miles. Jim Smith and I paced each other, thankful for the cloud cover this year as we ground away at the 7% grade. As we rode we could see a white spot high up ahead -- must be a building. As we got closer, we could tell it was actually a road -- must have to climb up there. The grade increased to a sustained 8-9% grade and after a final pitch of 10%, we dropped into Wrightwood (6000 ft). All the climbing had thoroughly depleted our muscle glycogen, so we replenished with seafood and steak dinners. 130 miles and 14,000 feet.

Tue., June 25: Wrightwood to Mojave

After yesterday's death march, we slept in and then straggled to the bakery for coffee and muffins . . . and more coffee. Fortified, we toured the Angeles Crest, enjoying the solitude of an early weekday morning. Steve, Mark, Muffy Ritz, and George Thomas detoured to climb Mt. Wilson and then caught the rest of the group after the hot climb up to lunch on Mill Creek summit (4900 ft). I generously allowed Lee to ride all the climbs -- good RAAM training -- while I enjoyed a recovery day spinning down the descents. 125 miles and 7000 feet.

Wed., June 28: Mojave to Mt. Whitney

We stoked up with pancakes and eggs at a Chinese-American restaurant and then headed up the 395. Last year we had a tail wind for the 112 miles to Lone Pine and flew along, chatting and admiring the red rock canyons. This year, we had a bit of a head wind to lunch near Olancha -- and then the wind picked up as we hammered the rollers to Lone Pine (3700 ft).

After a quick rest stop at the motel, we headed for the thunder clouds around Whitney Portal. I was not as strong a climber as most of the others and I knew what lay ahead. I opened a big gap heading out of town and rode as hard as I could over the first rollers. When I hit the 15% alluvial fan, I slowed significantly. Up ahead, lightening was flashing around the peaks; behind me a dot was slowly growing larger. I tried to ride a hard, steady pace, but he was drawing closer. "John, it's too stormy -- Im going back" Rick yelled. Ah, saved by the gods. Finally, I turned right onto the first switchback, a mere 10%, and could look down into the Owens Valley several thousand feet below me. Three long switchbacks later, I entered the forest. Won't be long now. Overflow parking lot. Getting close. Store. Another 100 yards to the waterfall at the top of the road. Whitney Portal (8731 ft). Gasp, gasp, brrr. I quickly retreated to the store and was soon joined by George and Muffy. We celebrated with cokes and coffee, becoming mildly intoxicated at the altitude, and then I headed down. If it started to rain before I got down, it could be really ugly. Just below the top, I saw Steve and within the next mile Mark, Jim and Mike.

That night, we had a bountiful pizza dinner with Dr. Ben Jones and his wife Denise. They are the honorary Mr. and Mrs. Mayor of Badwater and help to organize the Badwater to Mt. Whitney foot race, which would be held several weeks later. We ate lots of pizza, swapped ultra-running and -cycling stories, and picked their brains about training and competing in the heat. 140 miles and 9000 feet.

Thurs., June 29: Lone Pine to Lee Vining

The ride up the Owens Valley was spectacular, with snowy mountains on both sides. After a rest stop at Schottsky's bakery in Bishop, we started up the toughest climb of the trip. The road is a sustained 6% for over ten miles with nary a switchback to relieve the monotony and fewer trees than Lone Pine Canyon. I amused myself by calculating my d.p.m -- drops of sweat per minute falling off my nose. At lunch at the top of Sherwin Summit (7000 ft), we enjoyed sandwiches with fresh bread from the bakery. With a comfortably bloated stomach, I set off with Rick into the boiling thunderstorms. Three hours later, we reached Lee Vining (6780 ft), having survived rain, sleet, hail, lightening and thunder. 122 miles and 6000 feet.

Fri., June 30: Lee Vining to Sonora

Tioga pass wasn't open so we detoured north over Conway summit (8138 ft) and Devil's Gate (7519 ft) and then turned left on Highway 108 to Sonora Pass. The sign at the bottom is always worrisome: "Trucks/Trailers Not Recommended 26% Grade Ahead". I rode the first eight miles with Muffy, a rolling, manageable climb to the forest camp. After the camp the serious work begins. For the next eight miles the narrow road runs around and over the terrain with no road cuts to lessen the pain. In the first mile I opened a slight gap until the first 15% pitch where Muffy passed me handily. When the grade lessened a bit, I slowly closed the gap. After catching my breath, I snapped a photo of her climbing among the trees, granite and snow, and then I slowed dramatically. As I rounded each corner she was farther away and when I got to the last wall I was alone, going very slowly, trying simply to maintain my balance. One by one, the riders arrived at the top of Sonora (9624 ft) and we took a long lunch break, resting and playing in the snow.

Jim Smith drove the van down to the motel, so Lee and I rode the 65 miles together. Drafting Lee is like drafting a tandem: stay very close, pedal like crazy on the flats and downhills, and get a bit of rest on the uphills. Lee was on form and we beat all of the other riders to the motel. 125 miles and 8000 feet.

Sat., July 1: Sonora to Bridgeport

This day hurt. A lot. The road up Ebbett's Pass climbs for 50 miles with sustained sections of 4-5%, minimal flat spots, and no downhills. The last seven miles to the top of Pacific Grade summit (8050 ft) are a mini-Sonora pass. The ground was covered with snow and Mosquito lake was still frozen. We climbed slowly, sucking in the beauty and conserving our strength. After a fast, technical descent we began climbing again. By lunch at the top of Ebbett's Pass (8730 ft) we had climbed 10,000 feet. The eastern descent off Ebbett's is one of the classics in the Sierra: constantly changing grades, tight switchbacks and sweeping views, although you shouldn't risk looking too long.

It was over too quickly and we turned right, heading up the canyon toward Monitor Pass. Mid-afternoon is not the best time to ride the canyon. There is no shade and the sun bounces off the rock walls. After about 20 minutes we emerged into the high grasslands and admired the snowy peaks to the west. Finally, knees throbbing, we came to the summit (8314 ft). The east face of Monitor has long straight sections of 8%, which are a pain to climb but a joy to descend -- several of us joined the 55 mph club.

When we reached highway 395 we turned south, _away_ from Oregon, to get to our motel in Bridgeport. Steve, Muffy and George rode the final 30 miles up the Walker River canyon, while the rest of us sagged in from Walker. Rose Costin and her friend, Guy, had driven up from Stockton and joined us for dinner. 148 miles and 12,800 feet.

Sun., July 2: Bridgeport to Carson City

We slept late and then enjoyed omelets at the Hayes Street cafe. Heading toward Sweetwater Summit, we crossed the Nevada border and accomplished our first objective: California West to East in 8 days 2 hours. Since Lee had not ridden Ebbett's he was feeling strong and towed Jim, Rick, and Mike to lunch while Steve, Muffy, George and Mark, usually the faster riders, were happily off the back. In Gardnerville we had a leisurely lunch of burritos and burgers. Although the route to Carson City went right by the base of Daggett pass, only Mark had the strength for the bonus climb. 107 miles and 5000 feet.

Mon., July 3: Carson City to Calpine

After Grand and Super Slams at Denny's, we enjoyed a brief warm-up before the climb to Virginia City. Steve and George hammered up the 15% grade while I rode slowly looking at the ramshackle ghost towns. Lee rode the fast downhill, across the valley, and climbed the bottom part of Mt. Rose. The first few miles are misleading: the apparently flat road actually climbs a thousand feet before you get to the first switchback where the climbing is obvious. At 7000 feet, I took over for the climb to lunch at the ski area. Lee'd barely set up lunch when George hammered in, obviously coming on form, with Steve not far behind. After lunch, we rode a couple of miles to the top of Mt. Rose (8900 ft) and then descended, our eyes sweeping across the stunning views of Lake Tahoe. We headed north through Truckee and over the rollers on Highway 89 to Sierraville, where everyone stopped for pie and ice cream, before the final seven miles to Calpine. Calpine is a charming and peaceful small town nestled in the pines with one lodge/restaurant and a small store. Before dinner, we relaxed on the deck of the lodge enjoying chips and salsa. 103 miles and 9600 feet.

Tues., July 4: Calpine to Mineral

We ate muffins and bagels on the porch of the lodge and then headed up Yuba Pass (6701 ft). Steve and George set a mean pace, each cracking jokes and singing, as if they weren't riding hard. A quick descent lead to Bassetts and we turned up Gold Lakes Road past the Sierra Buttes which sparkled with snow and then descended back to highway 89. We headed north through the forests of the Feather River canyon, enjoying the river below and the trains and trestles above us. After lunch at Lake Almanor, we headed to Chester -- unfortunately, the long anticipated bakery was closed. When we arrived in Mineral (4796 ft), most riders just relaxed, but Muffy and Mark rode to the top of Lassen pass (8512 ft). They reported 30 foot snow walls at the top and that the road was closed farther north. 129 miles and 7600 feet.

Wed., July 5: Mineral to Mt. Shasta City

Since Lassen was closed, we detoured east around the park. At 6 am, it was very cold on the 30 mile rolling descent to Chester and we were all glad for the rolling climb past Lake Almanor and north on county road A-21. At the Bogard rest area on highway 44, we shed our warmers -- the mosquitoes enjoyed a late breakfast. Riding west on 44, past Lassen to the south, we could glimpse Mt. Shasta to the north, our destination for the day. At Old Station, we turned north on 89 (back on course) and rode through ranching country to lunch at a mere 3000 feet above sea level. After lunch we rode for 30 miles to Dead Horse Summit (4500 ft) and then dodged logging trucks and RVs to McCloud. One final, hot climb over Snowman's Summit (4470 ft) and we were in Mt. Shasta City (3561 ft). 166 miles and 7500 feet.

Thurs., July 6: Mt. Shasta City to Ashland

After 12 hard days, we slept in and then had the best breakfast of the trip at Lily's. By 8:30 am, we were headed north on back roads, riding as a group at a moderate pace. We tootled until noon, and then turned up I-5 for the final climb to Siskiyou summit. We paused at the Oregon border to celebrate our second record: California South to North in 12 days 6 hours, a remarkably slow ride. After a few more miles we rolled over the summit (4310 ft) and took the old highway down to Ashland. Before checking into the motel, we stopped at the Ashland bakery for a proper lunch, including dessert. 83 miles and 3500 feet.

Summary

In 13 days we'd ridden about 1550 miles, climbed 105,000 feet, and set two records which will only be broken by riders with tremendous perseverance. In spite of our record setting pace, we'd visited most of the bakeries en route. Most importantly, we'd had a good time riding with close friends. Next year we plan to set a record for the _slowest_ trip through the mountains from Mexico to Canada.